"Clicker Training Your Dog"

Clicker training may be one of the most recent concepts in dog training but its origins are anything but new, being almost 70 years old. However, it wasn't until the late 1980's that marine biologist, Karen Pryor and dog trainer, Gary Wilkes (together with other collegues) introduced clicker training in the USA.

A Dog's behavior is determined by the consequences...in other words, if a dog finds the results of an action rewarding, then that behavior is likely to be repeated.

Clicker training is basically about following that principle, using the clicker as a conditioned reinforcer. The dog is first taught to associate the sound of the clicker with something rewarding, such as a tidbit, and once this connection has been made it can then be used to highlight a particular action which you want him to repeat.

The clicker not only focuses the dog's attention on the aspect of behaviour you want to reinforce, but it tells him that something nice will happen as a reward for that behaviour. It also indicates to him the end of this action.

Although you can train a dog by using food alone, this method can have its drawbacks...for example, if the dog is to understand that a tidbit he is given relates to a particular action, it needs to reach him at the exact moment he is performing that action. This can be diffucult to achieve sometimes. Dogs tend to associate a reward with what is happening the moment they receive it, not necessarily with what they have been doing several seconds beforehand. However, once you have associated, in your dog's mind, the sound of the clicker with the treat which follows, the clicker buys you the extra time you need; the dog will understand it was the action he was performing at the time he heard the click which is being rewarded.

Clicker training is not a voice-dependent form of training...very sensitive and nervous dogs will not become upset by changes in your tone, you will less likely be tempted to raise your voice or shout. This method can also be used by any member of the family and the dog will still respond. You will probably find that you will not need to touch your dog in order to teach a particular action or behaviour, or even wait for a complete action, such as lying down, to be achieved before using positive reinforcement. By rewarding each small step towards your ultimate goal...called 'shaping'...you and your dog will not become discouraged, confused or frustrated, which all helps to keep training fun and stress-free.

Before you start training your dog with this method, you should spend a little time learning to use your clicker correctly. Because you will be using it to mark the behaviour you want your dog to repeat, it is important that the timing of the click is very precise...occurring at the exact moment your dogs offers you the desired action, not following it.

Watch TV and decide that every time a character performs a certain action...such as raising is hand over his head...you will click.
Ask a friend or relative to walk across the room and click each time their right foot touches the ground.
Throw a ball up in the air and click at the exact moment it touches the ground.
Throw a ball against a wall and click the moment it hits the wall.

Timing is vital, so it's worth practising to get it right, but make sure your dog is not around while you are doing this. For the same reason, do not idly click away when he is present. A clicker can be a very powerful tool, but misusing it will diminish its power and effectiveness.

Occassionally a nervous or sound-sensitive dog may appear frightened by the sound that the clicker makes. If this happens try the following...

Start training immediately...don't use the clicker in isolation.
Get someone to click at a distance...someone the dog won't be distracted by while he is playing with you. Gradually the clicker can be brought closer, and treats added as he accepts the sound.
Use the clicker inside a mitten to muffle the sound.
Use the clicker outdoors where the sound will be less intrusive and position your dog further away from you.
Click as you put your dogs dinner down on the floor to help him develop pleasant associations with the sound.
Try not to appear anxious or worried, as your dog will sense this.
If necessary, use an alternative conditioned reinforcer to the clicker such as a tongue click...this will take longer to establish but will work in much the same way.

The first step in clicker training is to introduce the clicker itself to your dog...associating the noise it makes with a tasty tidbit. You can do this quite simply by sounding the clicker, counting to five, and then giving a treat. It is important to remember to the short pause between clicking and rewarding, rather than giving the treat immediately, as your dog needs to understand that although it may not appear instantly, a tidbit will follow once you have clicked. Important note...it is best to keep the treats in a separate container within easy reach, rather than in your hand or on your person; this will teach your dog, right from the start, to respond to the sound of the clicker rather than concentrating on the food you have.

Most dogs learn fairly quickly...within five to ten repetitions of the click-reward exercise, but there are others that may take a little longer. However, it is not necessary to wait until the connection is made to start training. The understanding will strengthen as you work with your dog.

DO...make sure your dog is hungry - never begin a training session with a full tummy.
DO...always use tempting treats - something your dog would die for.
DO...pause briefly between clicking and rewarding.
DO...avoid talking.
DO...stop the session before your dog is full of treats and while he is still interested - always try to end on a positive note.
DON'T...click more than once each time.
DON'T...point the clicker in your dog's face like a remote control. Nervous dogs may be intimidated by the gesture while aggressive ones may consider it a hostile one.
DON'T...give up if you don't succeed at first - take a break and try again later...try a different place and better treats.
DON'T...pet or touch your dog during training; it will distract him from what you are teaching him.

As soon as your dog is comfortable with the clicker, you can begin using it as a training aid. It is usually best to start off with something simple, like 'sit' or 'down'. Remember, the idea is that any behaviour or action which your dog finds rewarding is likely to be repeated; so if he sits and you click and reward him, the chances are that he will sit again in the hope that he will get another click and treat. This method of training also stimulates his brain, teaching him how to problem solve for himself, rather than to sit helplessly in case he makes a mistake.

Whatever you wish to teach can be done in three possible ways: offered behaviour, lured behaviour, and targeting.

An offered behaviour involves waiting for your dog to perform an action, if it is one that you want, reinforce it with a click and reward. You can do this anytime you are with your dog; it does not need to be a formal training session, it can just be when you are relaxing and enjoying each other's company.

A lured behaviour involves using food treats to lure or encourage your dog to begin to move into a desired position, such as a 'down'. As he achieves the position, click...as before, you can click each of the intermediate steps of moving into the 'down', you do not have to wait until he is fully lying down. Follow the click with a treat...once your dog has begun to get the idea, try to get away from having a food lure in your hand and move on to using it as a prompt instead. Do this by teasing him a little with the tidbit and then withdrawing it and waiting for him to offer a response. It may take a little problem solving for your dog to figure out what he has to do to earn a click and reward, so be patient. As soon as the response becomes more reliable, leave the tidbit in the container altogether, otherwise you will end up with a dog totally dependent on food being in your hand to make any responses at all.

The clicker can also be used for teaching your dog targeting techniques...using his nose or paw to touch an object. Click as the touch occurs. This is an increasingly important area in clicker training, however, it is still in it's experimental stages.

With all methods of training it is not necessary to wait for a completed action before starting to reinforce the behaviour by clicking and rewarding. If you are teaching your dog the 'down' command, you can click and reward each step on the way to achieving it...for example, if he starts to lower his head , click and reward, then repeat the process but by using a lure each time to encourage him to lower his head still further. When his front legs begin to bend at the elbows, click and reward again; as he stretches a paw out forwards, click and reward; and so forth until you reach the point where he is in a full 'down', then you click and reward once more.

This rewarding of any actions heading in the direction you desire is called shaping. The clicking and rewarding of each of the gradual progressions towards the completed action gives your dog encouragement and information as to what you want him to do, without the need to manhandle him in any way, and it also keeps him motivated. When he produces a complete action, click and reward him to a 'jackpot' reward, such as a small handful of tidbits rather than a single one...he will soon realise that he has done something especially good.

TIPS TO REMEMBER

Be prepared to click and reward each small step as it appears, possibly several times before moving on to the next step closer to the ultimate goal.
Click at the precise moment your dog produces an action that you wish him to repeat.
Only reinforce behaviour or actions which lead towards the final goal you desire so your dog can make informed responses which guide him in the direction you want.
If you dog makes a mistake, do not scold him; simply do not click or reward him but turn briefly away from him and try again. Check that you are not expecting too much too soon...be content with small steps.

You do not need to use the clicker every day; it is a teaching tool and, like any others, if you still need to use it, it means the dog is not fully trained. Once your dog has learned the desired behaviour, you can gradually begin to ask more work for less reinforcement by repeating an action twice in a row before clicking and rewarding. The unpredictability of a reward can help to increase your dog's enthusiasm and desire to obtain it rather than dampen his eagerness to please and encourage him to make better efforts. You can also begin to fine-tune his actions by rewarding only the quickest, quietest, longest or best that he produces...take care to only concentrate on one aspect at a time.

By the time you reach this stage, you will also be ready to add a quiet verbal cue or hand signal. Once you are confident your dog understands the behaviour, you can fade out the use of the clicker. Every time you want to teach a new behaviour, you can return to using the clicker to help you achieve it.

Clicker training is very successful not just in basic training but also in overcoming problems, it approaches things from a very positive perspective...using it rarely requires any form of correction or punishment.

JUMPING UP

One problem which is fairly common is dogs who jump up on people. While on the one hand you may appreciate you dog's evident affection, it is not much fun if you are constantly being pushed off your feet by an over-enthusiastic pet, or getting covered in dirt from muddy feet. And it is unlikely that visitors will appreciate this attention either. However, remedying the problem is relatively simple when using the clicker.

If your dog jumps up and you push him down, then without realising it, you are actually reinforcing that action. A dog will do whatever he finds rewarding, and attention from you...even if it is you pushing him away or telling him off...is better, from his point of view, than no attention at all. Once you have introduced the clicker to your dog, and he associates hearing the sound with a treat, you can begin to take steps to remedy this problem.

Wait until your dog gets fairly close but before he has a chance to jump up, click. The timing has to be just right...before his paws have left the ground. If you are not quick enough you will be marking and reinforcing the action of jumping up instead. Following the click, remember to reward, and then try again. Doing this is, in effect, teaching you dog an 'incompatible behaviour'...in other words, training him to do something which is not compatible with the behaviour you want to eliminate. In this instance, if he keeps his paws on the floor, he can not also be jumping up at you. There are other incompatible behaviours you could teach instead, such as 'sit' or 'down'; it is a way of teaching a positive response rather than being negative or punishing. No matter what the problem, you can almost always find an incompatible behaviour to put with it, although with some you may need to be creative!

Once you have taught your dog not to jump up at you, you can invite a friend over and teach exactly the same thing again, gradually progressing to a range of different people...also remember not to limit it to just your home, try several environments as well.

Another common problem for dog owners is the recall or 'come' command. If your dog doesn't come back when called, it is not only frustrating but can be dangerous in certain situations. When retraining this, start off with the dog on a leash unless you have a totally enclosed, safe area; it is important to have him in a safe environment where he cannot stray too far or get into danger...and where there are as few distractions as possible...until you have started to establish the work.

Right from the start when training recalls, use a cue word such as 'come'. Whatever cue you choose, be consistent; always use the same word and try to keep the same cheerful pitch and tone in you voice each time. The first step is to simply run backwards to encourage your dog to run voluntarily towards you, using your cue word as he does so. Only use it once and never use it if you know you dog is not going to respond; you do not want him to learn that it is an optional command.

You can use food as a lure to encourage you dog to run towards you but withhold it until after you have clicked him. Make sure you are on level ground as you move backwards and know what is behind you, so you do not fall over. Every two or three steps stop, click and then offer the reward. Rewards do not have to be edible; you can vary the pay-off for your dog when he arrives. For example, using a favorite toy and having a quick game of fetch with him is another way of making coming to you fun and rewarding.

Some dogs quickly grab the treat when it is offered and immediately run away again, so as you click and then reward, place you hand under the dog's collar. You could also try scattering a few tidbits on the ground next to you to encourage him to remain close to you once he has arrived. It is also a good idea to try to figure out why your dog might be reluctant to come to you when called; very often it is because he associates it with having his leash put back on at the end of an off-leash walk. It means the fun is over and he is anxious to try to prolong it. You can resolve this simply enough by calling him to you at other times during the walk...after he has come to you and been clicked and rewarded, send him off to play again. This in itself will be a reward and will make him think that coming back to you is not such a bad idea. Although sooner or later the leash will go back on, nine times out of ten it does not necessarily mean the end of freedom and playtime.

Next enlist the help of another person your dog knows, someone who has used a clicker. Continue as before, with each of you calling the dog and clicking and rewarding him as he arrives. This can be built up to include a third person; switching your positions so you are not always standing in the same place or the same distance apart. If the dog goes to the wrong person he does not get the click or reward.

As your dog's response becomes consistent and reliable in quiet surroundings, you can gradually begin to introduce some distractions during training sessions so that eventually you will be able to rely on him coming back to you when you call, not matter where you are or what's going on around you. Make a list of all the things which might be a distraction for your dog; things like places, toys, food, smells, objects, other animals and people, and even things which may cause him to ignore you...don't be afraid to add things to your list as they come up. Work through the distractions one by one until your dog is reliable with each one.

Another frequently occurring problem for owners is their dog pulls while walking on leash. This can be very frustrating and is probably one of the most common reasons why owners stop taking their dogs out for walks...let's see if we can help make a bad situation better for both you and your dog.

Let's start teaching your dog not to pull on his leash by leaving him loose in a safe, enclosed environment. Begin by just walking around in a circle and click and reward any action of his that indicates interest in you, like looking at you or moving in your direction. Gradually shape him to walk beside you. The moment he arrives, click, stop and reward immediately. If he goes off again, just ignore him, however, each time he comes back to you, do the same thing: stop, click and reward. From this stage, as your dog walks beside you, progress to walking one step before you stop, click and reward...then two or three steps and so on. As you increase the number of steps, vary how many you take each time before you stop, click and reward...this will force your dog to stay focused. As with recalls, a toy can be used as an alternative reward, instead of a tidbit...this will help keep your dog interested for a longer period of time.

Once your dog is walking beside you for complete circles, you can move to the next stage, which is to do the same thing but on a leash. People often struggle to put the leash on: simply slide the collar around so the ring is at the back of your dogs neck rather than under his chin and you will have less of a problem. Once on, resist the temptation to shorten and tighten the leash; leave about four feet of slack between your hand and the collar. Continue as before when your dog was off-leash...he is less likely to pull if you have done the off-leash training properly. If he does pull, do not allow yourself to be tugged after him, or try not to pull him back towards you; just stand still and stop him from going further. By standing still you remove the aspect of the behaviour which the dog finds rewarding...getting to wherever he wants to go; standing still is boring! However, the moment he loosens the lead he finds that he gets a reward; he is clicked, rewarded and then gets to continue where he wants to go. Continue walking your circles, only clicking now every two or three steps when your dog is walking beside you...gradually increase and vary the number.

The major test, of course, will be when you start trying this training out in the big busy world, rather than in quiet, calm surroundings. Unfortunately, this is often where many people give up...but continue in the same way as you have done so far; if your dog pulls, stand still, wait until he rejoins you to walk a few steps on a loose leash and then click, reward and carry on. Do not enable him to reward himself by allowing him to drag you along to wherever he wants to go or he will not learn what is required of him; you will be periodically and inconsistently rewarding him for behaviour that you definitely do not want!